Rome is not just for wine lovers

I recently returned from a trip, with my girlfriend, to Rome followed by a seven day Greek Isles cruise. It was my first time in Europe and my first cruise as well. I had no idea what to expect, but went with an open mind. I did, however, do a little bit of research about what the beer scene is like in Rome before I left. Let me tell you, Rome isn't just for wine lovers.

While you can mostly find European lagers and macro beer all over, I was pleased to discover three legitimate craft beer bars right in the middle of wine country. Our first stop was a place called Open Baladin, a pub just East of the Tiber River, right in the middle of the city. 

Bottles on the back wall behind the bar at Open Baladin

Open Baladin is a dimly lit bar that boast 35 taps, 2 casks, and more than 100 different labels of Italian craft beers. They even have their own line of Baladin beers. They were strict on how many people were allowed to enter as standing room was not allowed. If there were no seats, you had to wait outside until people left. This made Open Baladin very comfortable, fairly quiet, and very relaxing. It was toward the end of the evening when we finally went. Certainly wish we could have spent more time there.  The food menu looked fantastic. It seemed just like the kind of crafty, artisan food you find in most American craft beer bars, certainly in Milwaukee, but with a definite Italian twist. Too bad we had already eaten dinner. Beers had: Miss Molly, a fruit beer by Birrificio Toccalmatto that tasted like passion fruit througout; Defunkt!!!, a fantastic sweet stout with creamy chocolate, cappuccino and vanilla by Extraomnes; and a Brewers Reserve Barley Wine, that was nutty, oaky, dark fruit, and sweet bourbon from Makers Mark bourbon barrels by Lervig Aktiebryggeri.

Our second and third stops happened back to back and come recommended by a friend who had visited.  After a fantastic Italian pizza dinner at Dar Poeta in the fabulous Trastevere neighborhood, we walked around the block to Bir & Fud, a modern, bare-brick cafe/bar that also specializes in Italian craft beer. Bir & Fund boasts 30 always rotating taps and a fantastically, delicious looking food menu that we didn't partake in. 

Taps at Bir & Fud

The 30 taps were perched on a long bar in a narrow entryway that opened up toward the back where there were tables for dinner patrons. The bartenders were extremely friendly and welcoming. Yet another beer bar that we could have spend a lot more time at.  Beers had: Frühlingsgose, a traditional German gose, by Bayerischer Bahnof Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei; Quarantot, an imperial IPA by Birrificio Lambrate; La Mummia (2013), a sour/wild ale aged in wine barrels by Birrificio Montegioco; Quarta Runa (2014) a soured fruit beer with loads of peaches by Birrificio Montegioco; and Frambueza, a fruited lambic by 'A Magara.

The third and, unfortunately, last craft beer stop was just across the street from Bir & Fud, a smaller pub called Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa. They have sixteen taps and a bottle selection that is only for on-premise consumption. The bartender was a little douchy. I guess they get those in Europe too. Despite the less-than-stellar bartender, I was happy to have had Cantillion's Kriek 100% Lambic from the tap. A definite highlight to the evening. It's interesting to see what other patrons order. Most were ordering IPAs and pale ales. I guess they are spoiled by having Cantillion on tap all too often.

I know there were a few other craft beer bars within and around Rome, but these were the three that we were able to visit. I love how walkable Rome is and we would definitely return. Knowing that Rome has a small, but very healthy, craft beer scene was a very pleasant surprise. Cheers and safe travels!